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Rat Facts! Questions about Keeping Domesticated Rats by Debbi J. Needham

5. Should I buy one or two rats? How do I introduce a new rat?
Rats are social and will do best in same sex pairs. They are just as happy to live in a large colony of rats. Generally, it is best to buy two
or more young rats at the same time, under 12 weeks-of age, and let them grow up together. That will reduce territorial and pecking order
fights that occur after a rat reaches sexual maturity around 9-12 weeks-old. (Rats can reproduce as young as 5-weeks-old). Introducing
new rats to established rats can be tricky. Usually introducing a baby (5-8 weeks) to established adults is much easier than introducing an
adult to established adults. After quarantining the new rat, completely sterilize and rearrange the home cage. This prevents the territorial fight
and puts everyone on the same ground. Fill up the food dish. Rats do get cranky when hungry. Let the rats meet on neutral ground such
as on the couch or bed. But, be there in case of fights. Pecking order fights are normal. Rats will wrestle and pin each other down or try to
stand taller than the other to establish rank, but drawing blood is not normal. Separate and try again later. Sometimes rats will not accept a
new adult into the group. This usually is not the case when introducing a youngster, as most adult rats are not challenged by them.

Rat Facts! by Debbi J. Needham 2020 Repost
Answers to Common Questions sent in Emails by Debbi Needham of Odd Fellows Rattery

1. With the many different breeds, what is the average life span of a rats or are some longer than other breeds?
The average life span of a rat is 2 years. Domesticated fancy rats can live longer or shorter lives. Blue rats, hairless rats and some beige rats
have a slighter incidence of health problems, in general, across the world. Most reputable hobbyists keep this in mind when they breed, only
breeding the healthiest rats and discontinuing lines that have had major health problems appear in them.

2. Are all the breeds temperament about the same or do they differ?
This is where the "lines" of rats differ considerably. Some rats are busy and curious - others are lap pets. Rats bred to be exhibited and
shown in rat clubs rats have been bred to be able to be handled, played with and inspected during shows and by strangers without having
any trouble. This trait is selected for by show rat breeders. With that said...some people want curious rats that explore everything and others
want rats that sit on their laps. Ask the breeder you choose about the temperament in their different 'lines'.

3. What is the best pet store to buy a rat from?

It totally depends on the individual pet shop, where or who their source of rats come from, and whether the store practices health exams and
quarantine on new arrivals.
The health of your rat should be your first concern when buying a rat over temperament and quality, as many very young rats will make
good pets, but whether that rat has a hearty immune system and whether is has been exposed to the most common rat heath problems,
respiratory illness and parasites is most important. Pet shops should examine all new arrivals. They should not let the public handle the rats,
unfortunately, because that is a source of exposure for rat to pick up a bacterial, parasite or viral infection. If the pet store combine rats from
different sources together without quarantining them for two weeks to see if they are harboring an illness or parasite like lice and mites...an
illness can show up within two weeks after you take the animal home. If you see ANY ill rats at a pet store, then the chances are high, the
other rats have been exposed to the same disease. Do not buy from that store. Vet bills can be high if you have to cure a respiratory disease
and sometimes the rat will never recover from it, having bouts of it, throughout their lives...(this is in the case of Mycoplasma, a lifetime
bacterial infection that, once initially triggered, can resurface periodically through the rats life).

4. My rat is sneezing. Is this common for rats?

Unfortunately, respiratory infections are extreamly common in rats. All rats have a bacteria called Mycoplasma, that lives in their their nasal
cavities, that when stressed, makes them get a respiratory infection which includes sneezing and sometimes gurgly or warbling sounds
(congestion). These can turn into pneumonia and the rat could die. Antibiotics cure the symptoms, but often (not always) it reoccurs when the
rat is stressed again. A rat will live a somewhat shorter life with reoccuring myco infections. Baytril is an effective antibiotic for rats. If the
veterinary prescribes pills, they can be broken up and rolled onto a piece of buttered toast or cookie dough and fed to the rat.
There are also a lot of rat colds or virus' out there that cause rats to sneeze much like we do when we get a common cold. Some viral
illnesses just cause sneezing and some are fatal and could cause death. If it is a common cold-like virus, it will pass in a rat within 5-14
days. The problem is the cold could set off a case of Mycoplasma and will need antibiotics anyway to cure. A sign of a fatal virus or infection
is the rat is hunched up and not eating or drinking. In this case, get the rat to a veterinary right away.

5. Should I buy one or two rats? How do I introduce a new rat?
Rats are social and will do best in same sex pairs. They are just as happy to live in a large colony of rats. Generally, it is best to buy two
or more young rats at the same time, under 12 weeks-of age, and let them grow up together. That will reduce territorial and pecking order
fights that occur after a rat reaches sexual maturity around 9-12 weeks-old. (Rats can reproduce as young as 5-weeks-old).
Introducing new rats to established rats can be tricky. Usually introducing a baby (5-8 weeks) to established adults is much easier than
introducing an adult to established adults. After quarintining the new rat, completely sterilize and rearrange the home cage. This prevents
the territorial fight and puts everyone on the same ground. Fill up the food dish. Rats do get cranky when hungry. Let the rats meet on
neutral ground such as on the couch or bed. But, be there in case of fights. Pecking order fights are normal. Rats will wrestle and pin each
other down or try to stand taller than the other to establish rank, but drawing blood is not normal. Separate and try again later. Sometimes
rats will not accept a new adult into the group. This usually is not the case when introducing a youngster, as most adult rats are not
challenged by them.

6. What is Quarantine?
Should I keep the new rat from my other ones even if I buy it from a breeder?
Quarantine means that you are keeping the new rat in a place (usually a separate building) away from your other rats for a period of two
weeks. During this time, you will watch and inspect the rat for parasites and illness. If the rat becomes ill, treat it, and start quarantine over
when all of the symptoms of the disease are gone.This should be practised with every single new rat regardless of where it was acquired
from. Some breeders allow people who own rats, into their ratteries and, unless precautions were taken by the visitor such as showering
and changing clothes before the visit, these people can carry disease on their bodies that could infect the rat you want.
After returning from a show, all rats that were brought, should be quarantined before introducing them to your other rats.

Rat Facts! Questions about Keeping Domesticated Rats by Debbi J. Needham

Other Articles About Rat Care on this Site
Caring for Hairless Rats